Several months ago, I expressed public praise (on LinkedIn of course) of Marks & Spencer (M&S – a UK retail giant, for my US friends) for launching their "Only Ingredients" brand.
And I meant it, sincerely.
As an enormous part of a market dominated by ultra-processed foods, the vast majority of which include large quantities of additives, unidentifiable emulsifiers and long lists of ingredients that read like lab manuals; seeing one of the UK's largest retailers take steps toward decomplexifying food looked, to me at the time, to be a big leap forward.
Even now, it still appears to be a big leap forward.
However, instinct isn't analytical.
When I took a closer look at the products they were selling, it became clear to me:
– A cleaner product does not always equate to a healthier product.
– And, an 'only ingredients' product does not always represent a better product.
This is not a takedown.
It‘a also not sensationalism, or clickbait.
And, it’s most definitely not me aligning myself with the "all supermarket foods are poisonous" crowd – far from it.
Rather, it‘s a reminder that whilst a product may be simple in terms of the number of ingredients and thus “clean”, it may not necessarily be healthy in terms of how it affects our metabolism.
First – what they've done well
Let's be fair.
Removing artificial additives is a great development.
Research into emulsifiers, etc. has shown that emulsifiers in some ultra-processed foods can damage the gut microbiome and/or disrupt the integrity of the intestinal wall, at least in animal studies and early human trials. Whilst the evidence is still developing, there‘a more than enough data to suggest caution is warranted.
Additionally, shorter and clearer ingredient lists help people understand their food better. If you know what‘a in a product, you are less likely to outsource your critical thinking to pretty branding and good shelf placement.
In that respect, M&S attempting to simplify their formulations is a genuine move forward.
But then we must ask the more difficult question:
What did they replace the additives with?
Because, removing artificial stabilisers and additives from a product without changing the metabolic makeup of the food will not change the metabolic impact of the food.
Agave is still sugar
Agave is found in many "clean label" reformulations.
Agave has been marketed for years as a healthier alternative to sugar. It is frequently referred to as "low glycemic".
While technically true, it is worth noting that:
– Agave is high in fructose. Fructose creates a lower, immediate increase in blood glucose levels than glucose or sucrose, resulting in a lower GI.
– It has approximately the same calorie content as sugar.
– It adds to the overall amount of sugar in the body.
– It is metabolised primarily in the liver.
– At higher doses, excessive fructose intake is associated with elevated triglycerides and a higher risk of fatty liver disease.
Replacing refined sugar with agave may alter the story told by the marketing team. But, it doesn’t instantly turn sweetened ketchup into a health food.
Lower GI does not equal metabolically neutral.
The illusion of "Only 5 Ingredients"
One dark chocolate bar caught my eye.
On the front:
“Only 5 Ingredients.”
Minimalist. Simple. Clean.
But turn it over and the chocolate is broken down into its individual elements:
Cocoa Mass
Cocoa Butter
Sugar
Emulsifier
Vanilla.
Now the ingredient count is different.
No law was broken.
No scandal occurred.
But it‘s clever.
Front-of-pack simplicity.
Back-of-pack complexity.
This is the best of modern food marketing.
Positioning through narrative.
A Clean Label Does Not Automatically Equal Metabolically Better
There is a significant difference here.
Removing artificial colours, preservatives and stabilisers can limit exposure to certain substances. This is a good thing.
However, if the product is still:
• High in sugar
• High in refined carbohydrates
• Structured on industrial seed oils
• High in calories and extremely palatable
Then the metabolic effect is largely the same.
And it is here that consumers must slow down.
It is entirely possible to eliminate ultra-processed additives while still selling a fundamentally low nutrient, high caloric food – just with better packaging.
The price signal
An additional subtle trend: the "Only Ingredients" versions are typically priced higher.
Which is interesting given that, in some cases, the basic ingredients are very similar to those that were previously being used.
This is not exclusive to M&S.
It is a commercial strategy that retailers use:
1) Repurpose.
2) Simplify the terminology.
3) Increase perceived value.
4) Change the price.
Companies are not evil.
They are commercial.
They want to maximise profit margins.
If using clean-label positioning can create perceived health value, then it is financially rational to leverage that.
But consumers must not confuse price with health.
Disagreement with the Extremes
There are online voices suggesting that all supermarket reformulations are cynical and meaningless.
I disagree.
Ultra-processed additives are bad.
We should encourage that.
But that encouragement does not necessitate the complete suspension of scrutiny.
We can say:
"This is progress."
And say:
"It is not a metabolic revolution."
Both statements can exist together.
What Do I Actually Replace?
This is not about vilifying products.
It is about making conscious decisions.
Here are some of the replacements I personally make.
⸻
Mayonnaise
Supermarket mayonnaise often employs refined rapeseed oil.
I choose to use Hunter & Gather mayonnaise (Amazon link) or Dr Wills (Amazon Link). They avoid using seed oils and maintain a simple, traditional ingredient list.
This is not based upon fears regarding the toxicity of rapeseed oil. There is no compelling evidence that moderate consumption of rapeseed oil causes harm.
It is based on the desire to minimise consumption of industrially refined seed oils in my diet, to keep my omega 6 levels balanced, and to utilise traditional fats wherever possible.
⸻
Ketchup
Conventional ketchup is basically sweetened tomato puree.
Hunter & Gather also make a cleaner version of ketchup (Amazon link). Wylde Market (if you’ve not come across them, I highly recommend them – they’re a direct from farmers store – essentially an online farmers market) have a producer who makes an amazing fermented ketchup (link here) and even a keto version too (link here) that is truly exceptional – and their fresh organic focaccia (link here) is one of my favourite things in life – when I’m eating carbs that is.
It tastes like real food, not formulation.
⸻
Cooking Fats
I use organic, grass fed ghee (this is our current favourite – link here – though we tend to buy what’s cheapest) or good quality butter (we get ours on Ocado and go for either a beautiful cultured butter from the estate dairy, or Guernsey butter for it’s unrivalled richness and taste – available from lots of retailers – being that did live there for nearly a decade) for high-heat cooking.
Rapeseed and other seed oils are not necessarily poisonous – The evidence doesn’t support that narrative, not yet anyway.
However, they are highly refined, and tend to be very rich in omega-6 fatty acids. I choose to avoid them where I can and consume them in moderation where I can’t. However, I tend to put my focus on consuming more stable, traditional fats for high-heat cooking.
⸻
Pasta
When I do eat carbs – Rather than eating refined white pasta, I opt for einkorn or other ancient grain pastas made by companies such as The Fresh Flour Company (Link here) – They also often sell via Wylde Market.
This is about nutrient density, slower digestion, and personal tolerance – not about creating a "food purity theatre" for myself.
Five More Swaps That Quietly Improve Metabolic Health
Patterns Matter More Than Perfection
Here are five additional modifications I suggest to anyone looking to reduce additive load and increase nutrient density.
⸻
1. Breakfast Cereal → Real Oats or Greek Yoghurt
All packaged breakfast cereals – including the "healthier" and “only ingredient” options – are:
• Processed grains
• Poorly digested
• Often sweetened
• Have Low Amounts of Useful Protein
I suggest replacing with:
• Organic Rolled Oats
• Greek Yoghurt with Full Fat Nuts and Berries
Why?
Slower glucose absorption.
Increased Satiety.
No Fortification Theatre.
⸻
2. Flavoured Yogurt → Full-Fat Natural Yogurt
Flavoured yogurts are commonly dessert masquerading as breakfast.
Replace with:
• Natural, Full-Fat Greek Yoghurt
• Add Your Own Berries or Cinnamon
You control the added sugar.
You remove syrups and stabilisers.
⸻
3. Protein Bars → Real Protein
Most protein bars are still ultra-processed.
Replace with:
• Clean Whey Isolate
• Collagen Peptides
• Eggs or Whole Food Protein
Less Sweetener.
Less Digestive Distress.
More Transparency.
⸻
4. Stock Cubes → Bone Broth or Simple Stock
Stock cubes generally contain maltodextrin, flavor enhancers, and hydrogenated fats.
Replace with:
• Bone Broth Powder
• Simple Vegetable Stock Made From Recognisable Ingredients
• Organic vegetable bouillon (here’s the one we use – Amazon link)
Lower Additive Load.
Greater Nutrient Density.
⸻
5. Refined Table Salt → Mineral Sea Salt
Table salt is highly refined and often includes anti-caking agents.
Replace with:
• Marine Salt Like Baja Gold (Amazon link here)
Not because table salt is toxic.
But because reduced processing, a much wider set of trace mineral‘s and better taste tend to result in greater mindfulness during consumption.
The Pattern Behind All of This
None of these substitutions are radical.
None are driven by fear.
None are predicated on food paranoia.
These substitutions adhere to a single principle:
• Fewer Additives.
• Less Sugar.
• Better Fat Quality.
• Higher Nutrient Density.
• Simpler Ingredient Lists.
That is it.
The Larger Lesson
The problem is not M&S.
The issue lies in assuming we have outsourced discernment.
Marketing teams are becoming increasingly sophisticated.
Consumers must become increasingly astute.
If a product claims "Only Ingredients" – turn it over.
Examine the back.
Ask:
• has the metabolic load changed?
• or has the marketing narrative changed?
Clean Labels Represent Progress.
But Literacy Is Power.
Especially With and After Cancer.
Especially When Health Can No Longer Be Hypothetical.
Fewer Ingredients Are Nearly Always Better.
Better Ingredients Still Matter Much More.
References
- Glycaemic Index and Fructose Metabolism
Livesey G, et al. Dietary glycemic index and load and the risk of type 2 diabetes: assessment of causality. Diabetes Care. 2019;42(5): 742–754.
https://diabetesjournals.org/care/article/42/5/742/36075/Dietary-Glycemic-Index-and-Load-and-the-Risk-of - Fructose Intake and Metabolic Effects
Stanhope KL. Sugar consumption, metabolic disease and obesity: The state of the controversy. Critical Reviews in Clinical Laboratory Sciences. 2016;53(1):52–67.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.3109/10408363.2015.1084990 - Bray GA, Nielsen SJ, Popkin BM. Consumption of high-fructose corn syrup in beverages may play a role in the epidemic of obesity. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. 2004;79(4):537–543.
https://academic.oup.com/ajcn/article/79/4/537/4690128 - Ultra-Processed Foods and Health Outcomes
Monteiro CA, et al. Ultra-processed foods: what they are and how to identify them. Public Health Nutrition. 2019;22(5):936–941.
https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/public-health-nutrition/article/ultraprocessed-foods-what-they-are-and-how-to-identify-them/ - Srour B, et al. Ultra-processed food intake and risk of cardiovascular disease. BMJ. 2019;365:l1451.
https://www.bmj.com/content/365/bmj.l1451 - Emulsifiers and Gut Microbiome
Chassaing B, et al. Dietary emulsifiers impact the mouse gut microbiota promoting colitis and metabolic syndrome. Nature. 2015;519:92–96.
https://www.nature.com/articles/nature14232 - Viennois E, et al. Dietary emulsifier-induced low-grade inflammation promotes colon carcinogenesis. Cancer Research. 2017;77(1):27–40.
https://aacrjournals.org/cancerres/article/77/1/27/618283 - Omega-6 Fatty Acids and Cardiovascular Risk.
Harris WS, et al. Omega-6 fatty acids and risk for cardiovascular disease. Circulation. 2009;119(6):902–907.
https://www.ahajournals.org/doi/10.1161/CIRCULATIONAHA.108.191627 - Hooper L, et al. Reduction in saturated fat intake for cardiovascular disease. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews. 2020;Issue 5.
https://www.cochranelibrary.com/cdsr/doi/10.1002/14651858.CD011737.pub3/full - Seed Oils and Processing
Gunstone FD. Vegetable Oils in Food Technology. 2nd ed. Wiley-Blackwell; 2011.
(Comprehensive reference text on industrial oil refining and processing.) - Dietary Patterns and Cancer Risk
World Cancer Research Fund / American Institute for Cancer Research. Continuous Update Project. Diet, Nutrition, Physical Activity and Cancer: a Global Perspective. 2018.
https://www.wcrf.org/dietandcancer - Refined Carbohydrates and Metabolic Health
Ludwig DS. The glycemic index: physiological mechanisms relating to obesity, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease. JAMA. 2002;287(18):2414–2423.
https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jama/fullarticle/194214 - Fructose and Non-Alcoholic Fatty Liver Disease
Lim JS, Mietus-Snyder M, Valente A, Schwarz JM, Lustig RH. The role of fructose in the pathogenesis of NAFLD. Nature Reviews Gastroenterology & Hepatology. 2010;7:251–264.
https://www.nature.com/articles/nrgastro.2010.41
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